| Home to more than 10 million people, the “City of Lights” is majestic in its architecture and artistic heritage. More than a destination of pleasurable externals, bourgeois absolutes and just-baked baguettes, Paris is great sightseeing, incredible shopping, and leisure dining that always comes with desserts in the form of delicate trays of the finest chocolates and macaroons.
Paris is so much more than the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, Notre-Dame and the Louvre. This trip, stroll the Marais and shop along rue des Francs Bourgeois or walk under the arches of the oldest square in Paris, Place des Vosges. Take time to explore the Latin Quarter to see the church of St. Severin, the Sorbonne and rue Mouffetard — not just because it’s where Joyce, Orwell, Balzac and Hemingway once lived, but also for the rows and rows of fresh food glistening like bouquets of colorful gems under the street market’s faded French blue-striped awnings. Stop by the booksellers’ stalls along the banks of the Seine around Notre-Dame for antique and second-hand books, comic strips, postcards and posters at great prices.
Saint Germain-des-Pres and the stately Church of St Sulpice’s beautiful Delacroix murals are a must-see this trip — as is the St. Germain Church, the city’s oldest church — before heading down the neighborhood’s enchanting streets, through the old squares and artists’ studios that surround it. Don’t forget to leave time to head up to the little village of Montmarte and the old cobbled streets where Renoir, Lautrec and van Gogh lived and worked; there are wonderful views of the city.
Paris is basically divided twice, first into 20 municipal quarters called arrondissements and second by the Seine, which divides the city into the Right Bank to the north and the Left Bank to the south, linked by 32 bridges. Two of those bridges connect to two small islands at the heart of the city: Ile de la Cite, the city’s birthplace and site of Notre-Dame, and Ile St-Louis, a moat-guarded oasis of 17th-century chateaux. The quarters spiral out like a snail, beginning with the first arrondissement. Included in these 20 “neighborhoods” are well known areas like Montmarte, Montparnasse and the Marais.
The best way to find an address is by checking out the arrondissement first. This is indicated by a number followed by “e” or “er,” which in English means “th” or “st” (i.e., 7e, 1er). It’s also indicated by the last two digits of a postal code (i.e., 70007 = the 7e).
What to See
 What weighs 7,000 tons and has 1,665 steps and 10,000 light bulbs? The Eiffel Tower! This breathtaking landmark was built by Gustave Eiffel (did you know he designed the framework for the Statue of Liberty?) for the 1889 Universal Exhibition to commemorate the centenary of the French Revolution and was opened by the Prince of Wales, who later became King Edward VII of England.
 The Louvre is the world’s greatest art museum — so it really doesn’t matter if you’ve been here before since there’s no chance you’ve seen it all. Collections divide into Asian antiquities, Egyptian antiquities, Greek and Roman antiquities, sculpture, objets d’art, paintings, and prints and drawings. Obviously, the top attractions (and most likely the ones you’ve seen) are the “Mona Lisa” and the 2nd-century “Venus de Milo.”
Note: Avoid the never-ending lines to enter through the Pyramid. Instead, come in from the Carrousel de Louvre mall on rue de Rivoli or, even better, through the Louvre’s Metro stop.
Moulin Rouge has been putting on its famous show since 1889. Of course, being immortalized by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec and known for the risque can-can didn’t hurt either. It’s still fabulous with plenty of feathers, sequins and of course, gorgeous semi-naked showgirls. It’s open every night.
The 164-foot Arc de Triomphe was planned by Napoleon to celebrate his military successes, but wasn’t finished for another 20 years after he took a trip to Elba. It has some magnificent sculptures, and the names of Napoleon’s generals are inscribed on the stone facades. There is a small museum halfway up the arch devoted to its history (you can actually climb to the top). France’s Unknown Soldier is buried beneath, and the flame is rekindled every evening.
Although it’s probably easier to take the elevator up to the top of the Eiffel Tower, you can also climb 387 steps up to the north tower of 12th-century Notre-Dame for a nice view of the city. It was here in 1804 that Napoleon crowned himself emperor and then crowned Josephine as his empress. When planning your visit, keep in mind that the cathedral is open year-round from 8 a.m. until nearly 7 p.m., but the towers and crypt are operated by the National Monuments Centre and have more limited opening hours.
Musee d’Orsay is in fact a magnificent 1900 railway station that now houses a superb collection of Impressionist art from 1848 – 1914, including major works from Degas, Monet, Renoir, van Gogh and Gauguin. If you don’t have lots of time, browse the Upper Level to see the enormous railway clocks in addition to some of the museum’s best exhibits.
There’s little left of the Bastille, and its remains are pretty much surrounded by a neighborhood filled with an array of popular cafes, clubs and the Opera Bastille, completed in 1990. The Colonne de Juillet dominates la Place de la Bastille, marking the site of the prison that was stormed at the start of the French Revolution in 1789.
In the 16th century, 30 windmills were built in Montmarte for winemaking and milling grain, but only two remain today. Wander the back streets, away from the main square and souvenir shops. At dusk, sit on Basilica du Sacre-Coeur’s top steps and watch Paris indeed become the City of Lights. The basilica is dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Christ and the crypt contains what many believe to be Christ’s sacred heart. By the way, when its 19-ton bell tolls, you not only hear it — you feel it!
Check out one of the city’s off-the-beaten-path museums. The Rodin Museum was once the home of Rodin and now houses several of the artist’s impressive collections, including personal ones. The garden is as spectacular as the inside, so leave time for both. Hotel des Invalides is the magnificent 17th-century domed structure constructed under the direction of Louis XIV to shelter old and wounded soldiers; it’s also the site of Napoleon’s tomb. The Museum of Jewish Art and History in the Marais is a wide-ranging collection of objects dating as far back as the Middle Ages.
Paris Walks offers informative two-hour walking tours that range from the Latin Quarter to Hemingway’s Paris. It’s a great way to get up close and personal with the city.
Head for the rue de Bac for smart shops and a bit of neighborly biographic history. Edith Wharton lived around the corner on the rue de Varenne at Nos. 53 and 58; the Prime Minister’s official residence is at No. 57 on Varenne. The chapel of the Miraculous Medal, where Catherine Laboure was said to have visions of the Virgin in 1830, is at No. 140.
Cite de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, which opened in 2007, is the first and only permanent collection dedicated to architecture and architectural heritage. Designed by Jean-Louis Cohen and Jean-Francois Bodin, the new museum showcases the collections of drawings, drafts and models of the French Institute of Architecture.
Pari Roller lets you skate with thousands of locals any Friday at 10 p.m. from Place Raoul Dautry along a three-hour police-escorted route. Not up to the challenge? Then watch! It’s the most incredible sight to behold. The 18-mile event is strictly for experienced skaters.
 Where to Eat
In Paris, there are memorable dining experiences around every corner — from the melt-in-your-mouth croissants at a sunny sidewalk cafe to the spectacular culinary creations at the city’s many Michelin-starred hot spots. If you’re looking to try one of the latter, be sure to make your reservation well in advance, and consider a lunchtime visit to enjoy similar gourmet cuisine at more affordable prices.
A few tips for dining in Paris: The city’s restaurants, cafes and bars are now non-smoking, at least indoors — as a result, outdoor patios are now smokier than ever. When looking at your bill, keep in mind that the tip is often included; however, it’s customary to leave a few extra euros if the service was particularly good. Keep an eye out for the phrase “service non compris,” which means that the tip has not been included; in this case, leave about 15 percent. Finally, never — we repeat, never — order a doggie bag for your leftovers.
Les Bouquinistes, Guy Savoy’s trendy Left Bank bistro, is located near Notre-Dame and offers elegant French cuisine such as grilled royal sea bream with zucchini and antiboise sauce, and pan-seared foie gras with salty crumbly shortbread and cherries.
The combination of its Eiffel Tower location and spectacular food makes Le Jules Verne one of the most popular (and expensive) restaurants in Paris. Make your reservations months in advance (though it’s a bit easier to land a table at lunchtime).
Pierre Herme is the city’s premier pastry chef. We love the glorious macaroon confections in pistachio, coffee, rose, passionfruit-chocolate, lemon-hazelnut and the like.
The stylish Le Martel (3 rue Martel) serves up a delicious mix of French and Moroccan cuisine to a trendy clientele in the 10th arrondissement.
You can have … er, buy your foie gras and eat it too at Granterroirs (30 rue de Miromesnil). Add truffles and other similar goodies for a memorable light lunch.
Passionate or casual tea drinkers should head straight for Mariage Freres, which sells more than 500 types of tea and has been in business since the 1800′s.
It’s worth heading a little bit out of town to dine at L’Atelier du Parc, where the gourmet French fare is moderately priced. The restaurant is easily accessible by Metro.
At Angelina, chocolate bars are melted down to thick syrup in the name of hot chocolate. And don’t miss the amazing Mont Blanc gateau.
Where to Stay
Accommodations in Paris run the gamut from opulent suites to cramped garrets (not that we’ll be recommending any of the latter!). Keep in mind that guestrooms here tend to be smaller than many North American travelers are used to, and that air-conditioning is by no means standard — so if you’re traveling during the potentially sticky summer months, call ahead to check.
Hotels on the Right Bank tend to be a bit more chic and luxurious than those on the Left Bank, where you’ll find more budget options as well as mid-priced hotels with historic charm. Apartment rentals can be a delightful alternative to standard hotels, offering visitors the chance to settle into a residential neighborhood and live like a Parisian for a few days or weeks. See Finding a Vacation Rental for tips.
The Four Seasons George V is not only one of the best hotels in Paris but also one of the best hotels in the world. Accommodations are lavish and service is sublime.
Tucked away in the residential 13th arrondissement is La Villa Paris, an intimate, four-room bed and breakfast. Though it’s housed in a 1920′s mansion, the rooms are both modern and luxurious. There’s easy access to central Paris via nearby Metro and bus stops.
The recently renovated Hotel Moderne Saint-Germain offers 45 pleasant, moderately priced rooms in the heart of the Latin Quarter, within walking distance of the Pantheon, Notre-Dame and the Louvre.
Looking for understated luxury? Try the small but swanky Jays Paris, located in the 16th arrondissement near the city’s upscale Golden Triangle neighborhood (bordered by the Champs Elysees, Avenue Marceau and Avenue Montaigne). The property offers five spacious, well-appointed suites.
The Hotel Residence Foch is a good mid-priced option not far from the Champs Elysees. Rooms are small but elegant, and offer free Wi-Fi.
Budget travelers should head to Hotel Valadon, just a short walk from the Eiffel Tower. It has a dozen clean, comfortable rooms, including a two-bedroom cottage that’s well-suited for families or groups.
 Where to Shop
Paris is a shopper’s paradise. Serious shoppers who want to make the most of their time in Paris should take a shopping tour; several companies, including Chic Shopping Paris and Paris Luxury Tours offer different options. “Merci” should always precede a departure from any shop, whether you were helped or not — and a “bonjour” upon entering is always appreciated.
In France, a sales tax or VAT is tacked on to most purchases; however, non-E.U. citizens who spend at least 175 euros at a participating store can get the VAT refunded (with some exceptions). For additional information, visit the French Embassy Web site.
Note: Refunds are almost non-existent, so shop mindfully. In most department stores, you will be handed a “bill” to pay at the cashier (sometimes a long walk away) before getting your items. By French law, sales take place twice yearly (January, July). They’re amazing and the long lines form outside the swankiest shops on day one. To avoid fines, some stores (mostly department stores) mark some racks as “specials” or “just in,” but it isn’t all that common.
Visit Avenue Montaigne in the eighth arrondissement for haute couture from the likes of Chanel, Laurent, Dior and Lanvin.
Marche aux Puces St-Ouen de Clignancourt, the most famous flea market in the city, is enormous — consisting of some 3,000 stalls. It’s held along Avenue de la Porte de Clignancourt Saturday through Monday.
Rue du Faubourg St-Honore pays homage to glamour, fashion, high style and the world’s most expensive shops and galleries — and the President’s Palace.
The Champs-Elysees is one long promenade of high-end shopping opportunities, including names like Prada, Sephora and Louis Vuitton.
Many visitors are surprised to hear that Paris has a Chinatown, but it’s actually a fun place to shop. Browse the aisles at giant Asian supermarkets along avenue d’Ivry such as Tang Freres packed with dried mushrooms, Vietnamese lemongrass, canned litchi juice and powder water chestnuts. It’s a must-do for finding those ingredients you can never seem to find for a recipe (as long as it’s canned or sealed, it’s fine for getting through Customs back home).
FRANCE@FriendsTravel.com |
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